Angels in Disguise

Once I was cleared by Israeli immigration on Wednesday, I left the port and headed towards the nearest hostel that showed up on my GPS. The Port Inn Hostel‎ was less than a hundred metres away, so that worked out nicely. It's a very popular place, and not just because of its proximity to the port. This is a proper hostel, with all the things a budget traveller (or pilgrim) needs.  There were quite a few Germans staying there, as well as a group of Israeli teens (complete with acoustic guitar), an Australian who had served in the Six Days War, and an elderly Jew from the Netherlands who gave me several helpful tips on what to see and where to stay while in Israel.

Before I turned in for the night, I spent some time at one of the three computer terminals, using Google Maps and ‎a booking site to plan the next day's walk. I found another highly rated hostel in Jisr ez-Zarqa, the only Israeli Arab village on the coast. It's 40 kms from Haifa, so I didn't linger over breakfast Thursday morning. Before leaving Haifa, however, I decided to ascend Mount Carmel and visit the grotto that's identified as Elijah's cave. As with my climb to the Balamand in Lebanon, it wasn't particularly high, but it was a long and steep walk. Along the way I passed the Shrine of Bab, the centre of the Bahai faith. I also passed the primary monastery of the Carmelite order. I amused myself with the idea of going in to learn whether they wear shoes or not. (Church history geeks may chuckle at that, but the rest of you can ignore it and simply keep moving.) According to the tourist map I picked up at the hostel, Elijah's cave is located along the footpath leading from the crest of Mount Carmel down to the coast. I was looking for it, but passed on by without spotting it.

Once down on the coast road, I started to walk in earnest for the first time since arriving in Taşucu over two weeks ago.‎ The weather was beautiful, with a light breeze and a few clouds. Once the main coastal highway split away from Route 4, the traffic was quite light. The bus stops are spaced about 500 m apart, and they all have benches and plenty of shade. It was an ideal day for walking, yet by 3:00 in the afternoon I was ready to pack it in. I'd been careful to stay hydrated, but I still had a headache which was steadily worsening. Just ahead there was a turn for a village. Consulting my GPS app showed nothing but a short lane leading to a road running parallel to my current route, with two roads at either end of it. Looking down the lane when I drew up to it, I could see a small supermarket. If nothing else, I'd buy a cold drink and ask about a place to stay.

Part of my planning last night at the hostel involved comparing the distances logged between Haifa and Jerusalem on two different pilgrimages. Mony and Alberto had walked from Rome to Jerusalem beginning in November 2001. (They did it all on foot - no ferries!) They covered 158 kms along the road in Israel, while Brandon Wilson's 2006 pilgrimage saw him covering 213 kms along the Israel National Trail. Since I'm so close to the end of my journey and the beginning of Holy Week, I've opted for the shorter road route. Since the INT was still a possible route for me up until last night, I had downloaded a list of people along the Trail who are willing to act as hosts to hikers for a minimal fee, or for free. These folks have come to be known as "trail angels."

Megadim is actually quite a pleasant little town, with more to it than I'd expected. One of the unexpected elements was the very sturdy bright yellow gate near the entrance to the village, with a guard post and surveillance cameras. Once I'd bought some refreshments and sat down at a picnic table, I met my own trail angel. He was disguised as an elderly gentlemen who addressed me in Hebrew. When he switched to English, I was delighted to accept his offer of hospitality for the night. I'm not sure how to decline the invitation to join him for the Passover meal tomorrow evening, other than to explain that I'm very honoured but that I am eager to get to Jerusalem for my own feast. We'll have that discussion tomorrow, I suppose.

I only covered 16 kms today in spite of the favourable walking conditions. My goal of Jisr es-Zarqa may have been a bit optimistic after a fortnight of inactivity, but that means tomorrow I'll only have to cover 24 kms. I'm planning to be on the road as soon as I can decently excuse myself in the morning. Coffee would be nice, but perhaps for these last few days I should return to the rhythm of the Camino which saw me walking for an hour or two before stopping for my first meal of the day.

Israel

Moments after one of the immigration officers brought me coffee and brownies, I was handed my passport and told that I could leave. It's ten past two in the afternoon, so I won't be leaving Haifa today, but at least I am officially in the country now!

Haifa

Four hours after making port, I'm still waiting at immigration. Everyone has been very polite and professional, but my itinerary over the past few months has raised some questions. My advice for anyone contemplating a similar trip is to go from Turkey to Cyprus by ferry, walk to Larnaca, and then catch a flight to Tel Aviv. That would be cheaper and more direct, and would avoid all the hassles involved with the shipping company and Cypriot regulations, not to mention the visit to Lebanon.

Once I have my passport, I'll find a place to stay in Haifa and spend the rest of the day exploring the immediate area. Hopefully there will still be a few hours of daylight by then!

March 30: Limassol

This morning I'd intended to be up early, visit a few small museums in Larnaca, and then catch the 10:00 bus to Limassol. The intercity bus costs €4 and it's a 90 minute trip, which would have left me a bit of time to explore the city before boarding the ferry for Haifa. 

 So much for my intentions. This morning I slept in, had a leisurely breakfast, uploaded a few more photos, and didn't check out of my furnished flat until shortly after 10:00. Incidentally, while there is no shortage of accommodation in Larnaca (at least in late March), I found a wonderful place which is worth a look for anyone planning a stay here. (Well, maybe not anyone. If you're looking for five star spa recommendations, you're reading the wrong blog.) The €10 per night hostels I stayed at in Bulgaria were fantastic and offered great value for the money, but I think the Petalmo City Apartments is the best place I've stayed in the past six months. It's not the fanciest, but for €20 I got a furnished apartment: WiFi, full kitchen facilities, separate bedroom, bathroom with a tub, and even a washing machine! It's 350 m to the beach, and about 600 m to the church of St Lazarus. My flat didn't have a balcony, but several of the others do. Bookings can be made online, or they can be contacted directly:

Lordou Vyronos Str. No 50 

+357 99 627170 or 

+357 99 923926 

petalmo@cytanet.com.cy 

 I was amused when I discovered that "Lord Byron" intersects with "Gladstone." The British legacy in Cyprus is still very much a reality. My first clue came as soon as I left the terminal at the airport and saw the traffic driving on the left, and when I ordered chips (aka french fries), the malt vinegar was brought to the table as a matter of course. More annoyingly, the power outlets also use the British three-prong system. Although my power adapter can handle it, I had left that plug at home in Canada, not thinking I'd need it. For €2.50, I bought one at a convenience store. I'm unlikely to use it again in Cyprus, but I have a three hour stopover in London on the way home. Could be useful there, I suppose.

Another aspect of the British legacy in Cyprus is the widespread use of English by the Cypriots I've met, more so than anywhere else I've been on this pilgrimage. The accent is a charming mixture of Greek and Oxford, although I've heard American accents on the street. In addition to Greek, I've also heard people speaking Arabic, French, Russian, and languages I couldn't identify, at least one of which originated from the Indian subcontinent. 

This morning I did make it to the small Byzantine Museum beside St Lazarus. Admission was only €1, which was about right for looking at liturgical artifacts dating mainly from the 18th and 19th centuries. The last two of the five rooms contained a collection of icons, and a few of the 16th century works were stunning. (I found the 18th and 19th century pieces to be much less inspiring.) 

Around noon I made my way towards the bus stop at the beachfront promenade. I was unsuccessful in my attempt to exchange currency. I still had some US dollars left from my sojourn in Lebanon, so when I spotted a convenience store that boasted "No Commisions" on their "Great Rates" I headed in to buy some Israeli shekels. As it turns out, they only exchange currencies in one direction. A sudden cloudburst drove me under shelter at a café, where I bought an overpriced coffee and used their WiFi. 

The bus ride to Limassol passed quickly. The last stop was the New Port, where I hopped off. The shipping company doesn't have an office at the port, but it didn't take long to locate. The one email I received from them while I was still in Lebanon included the assertion that "Our sailing is scheduled for every Monday (subject to alterations without notification.)" -- except that this week, the ship sails on Tuesday. I was rather shocked when I learned the price -- €235 is more than double what I paid for the ride from Turkey to Lebanon. They told me that since it's a cargo vessel, insurance for a foot passenger is very high. Perhaps the discrepancy in prices is due to EU regulations which didn't apply for the Turkey-Lebanon route. It would have been much cheaper to fly to Tel Aviv! 

Once I tucked my ticket away, I kept walking towards the city centre on the lookout for a place to spend the night. One woman saw me walking and pulled over to offer me a ride since "the city is very far." I thanked her, but declined. Eventually I found a decent hostel 5 km from the port. The sign advertising free WiFi wasn't taken down when the hostel changed hands, but there are cafés in abundance. I'm to be at the port by 10:00 tomorrow morning. This seems excessively early, as the info on the shipping company's website indicates it's a fifteen hour journey and we arrive in Haifa at 8:00 Wednesday morning. At least I've got a good book to help pass the time. 

And now I'll pay for my coffee and go find some dinner. I probably won't be online again until Wednesday evening, and perhaps not even then. I'm still not sure if I'll take the Israel National Trail through the wilderness or stick to the roads. My GPS track on Wednesday will show anyone who cares to check which way I've gone.

From dust thou art and to dust shalt thou return

One of these sarcophagi was the second grave of St Lazaros. After Christ raised him from the dead, he travelled to Cyprus and is considered to be the first bishop of the island. He served the church for decades before falling asleep. in the ninth century, his relics were transferred to Constantinople, although the local church retained a few. When Constantinople was sacked by the Crusaders in 1204, the relics of St Lazaros were taken to Marseilles. They have since been lost. http://flic.kr/p/rzZsre